Duration: 21 days
Season: July – August
Route: climbing to Lenin Peak
Level of difficulty: program is suitable for well-prepared people, used to high altitudes, with good health. This program is for the people experienced in mountaineering. If you are not so prepared in mountaineering there is opportunity to take part in expedition to go up there with experienced personal guide.
Mountaineering and Expeditions
Duration: 21 days
Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 1st July and 28th August. The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is without doubt the "Jewel of the Tien Shan". It is the second highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as "The Mountains of Heaven". Khan Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed - all by Soviet teams. We offer a classical route - from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 or 4 camps will be used to climb Khan Tengri.
The most often climbed route, coming from the Southwest involves many kilometers of a mixed and broken ridge which is all situated above 7000 meter. Advanced base camp is located at Zvjozdochka glacier at 4600 m. Then early in the morning we head for camp at 5300m on Dickiy pass. Camp 3 is at snow plateau at 5700 meters where we will either use snow caves or tents. Further camps are then established at 6400m and 6800m, the upper camp being just before the long traverse (about 6 km. at the altitude above 7000m.) to the summit ridge. A final snow cave is normally established at 7100m towards the other end of the long traverse. The summit day is relatively long.