Lenin Peak (7134 m)
Duration: 21 days
Season: July – August
Route: climbing to Lenin Peak
Level of difficulty: program is suitable for well-prepared people, used to high altitudes, with good health. This program is for the people experienced in mountaineering. If you are not so prepared in mountaineering there is opportunity to take part in expedition to go up there with experienced personal guide.
Base Camp Achik-Tash will be active between 1st July and 10th September. Situated in Pamir montains, on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tadjikistan, close to the border with China and Afghanistan, Lenin Peak is one of only five 7000 meter peaks in the former USSR. At 7134 meters it is the third highest, the others being Peak Communism (7495m) and Korzhenevsky (7105m), both in the Pamirs, and Peak Pobeda (7,439m) and Khan Tengri (7010m) in the Tien Shan. To climb all five admits you to the elite group of Russian climbers known as Snow Leopards. Lenin Peak is considered the most accessible 7000-meter mountain. There is a high way going almost to the foot of the peak. Also Lenin Peak by the normal Razdelny route is practically no technical climbing involved.
Base camp is situated on a raised meadow between two steep river valleys. The ground is a carpet of wild garlic and alpine flowers. Going over the Puteshestvennikov Pass (4200m). The ascent usually takes 1-1.5 hours by a good path. Sometimes there is snow on the pass. Then descend to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier. Further crossing the river carefully. The best time for crossing is early morning, as the river rises rapidly throughout at this time. Across the left moraine of glacier to the Lenin glacier (4100m) and hike to camp 1 (4200 m).
From camp 1 at 4200m, crossing the dry Lenin Glacier and ascend the long snow slopes which run directly to the summit (north face). At 5000m traverse to the west and, ascending gently, arriving at the rim of a large snow basin. Crossing it, traversing beneath Razdelnaya Peak. A short climb up a scree/snow slope leads to camp 2
There are a few crevasses on this section of the route but it is straightforward snow plodding. It is, however, a long and tiring day, and an early start is needed to avoid the worst effects of the sun. Directly above camp 2 is an easy-angled couloir which leads to the north ridge of Razdelnaya Peak (6148m). Initially the ridge is almost level, but as we approach Razdelnaya Peak the angle steeples. The final 400m climbing to the summit of Razdelnaya Peak is straight-forward but the effects of altitude make it hard work. The views from the summit are superb. To the north we can finally get the true perspective of the Alay Plain while to the south there are a multitude of snowy peaks. Peak Communism and Korzhenevsky dominate our view of the south Pamirs. Further east the Wakhan and Hindu Kush are clearly visible, and on a good day it is possible to make out Tirich Mir. From Razdelny Peak the ridge dog-legs to the west and drops down 100m to Razdelnaya Pass at 6000m. It is here that we will make camp 3.
From camp 3 the whole of the summit ridge is visible. From here we will have two options. Either climbing directly to the summit and back to camp 3 in one long day, or we place a fourth camp at about 6400m. From camp 3 we follow the broad ridge to a plateau (the site of camp 4) at 6400m. Traversing this back to the ridge proper where it steepens to form a short step which is turned on the north side. Above this the ridge is broken and rocky until we reach a large snow plateau. Traversing and rejoin the ridge just below the summit. The summit at 7134m is crowned by a number of plaques, including one of Lenin himself. The views, as you would expect, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China. Further in the distance is the Hindu Kush and further west still the Karakoram.
Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek. Accommodation in a hotel.
Day 2. Flight to Osh. Transfer Osh-Achik Tash
Day 3. Acclimatization ascent to Petrovskogo Peak.
Day 4. Descent to the base camp.
Day 5. Preparation day.
Day 6. Climb to the Сamp №1 (4200m).
Day 7. Climb to the Сamp №2 (5300m).
Day 8. Climb to the Сamp №3 (6100m).
Day 9. Descent to the Сamp №1.
Day 10. Descent to the Base Camp (3500m).
Day 11. Rest day.
Day 12. Preparation day.
Day 13. Climb to Camp №1.
Day 14. Climb to Сamp №2.
Day 15. Climb to Сamp №3.
Day 16. Climb to Сamp №4 (6400m).
Day 17. Ascent of the summit (7134m) and descent to the Сamp №3.
Day 18. Descent to the Сamp №1.
Day 19. Descent to the Base Camp (3500m).
Day 20. Transfer to Osh. Accommodation in a hotel.
Day 21. Flight to Bishkek.
Please note that the above itinerary is intended to be a guideline only. Unforeseen problems with team fitness could occur and there is always the threat of bad weather to force last minute changes. This period will also include essential rest days taken at Base Camp.