Mountaineering in Ala Archa National Park

Mountaineering in Ala Archa National Park

Duration: 6 days, 5 nights
Season: all year long
Route: Bishkek – Ala Archa National Park – Bishkek
Level of difficulty: this program is for those, who makes first steps in alpinism.
We may adapt program either for beginners, either for professional mountaineers. 

The Ala Archa gorge is located in the Central part of Kyrgyz Ala Too ridge in 40 km to the South of Bishkek. An area of 200 square kilometers is a state natural park. It was created in 1976, with the goal of preserving endangered rare species of animals, plants and the development of tourism, mountain climbing. Ala Archa is also considered the largest among all the gorges of the Kyrgyz ridge.
From the Kyrgyz language, “Ala” is translated as “motley”, “Archa” means “juniper”.
Kyrgyz people have traditionally held in special esteem, using smoke from its burning wood to chase away evil spirits.
The park has more than 20 small and large glaciers and about 50 mountain peaks. The highest peak of the Kyrgyz ridge is the peak of Semyonov Tien Shan 4895 meters. The Ak Sai glacier area is considered a unique area for mountain climbers. Here there are mountains of various difficulty levels. In mountaineering terminology, from one to six. We may adopt program either for beginners, either for professional mountaineers. We have licensed professional guides. The mountaineer beginner could become here Master of Sports.

Day 1
Bishkek – Ala Archa National Park – Racek hut

Meeting with guide and transfer to the Ala Archa National Park. The trek starts from former mountaineering camp “Alplager Ala Archa”. The path follows us through fir forests and bring to mountain plateau. On half way we stop for rest at Ak Sai waterfall. Then continue along steep moraines till “Ratcek” mountain hut. Night in the hut.
Altitudes during the day (above sea level): Bishkek – 800m, “Alplager” – 2200m, 
Ratcek mountain hut – 3350m.
Distance and travel time: Bishkek – Ala Archa 45km, 1-1,5h; Ala-Archa – Racek hut 5-6km, 4-5 hours by foot.

Day 2
Racek hut – Uchitel Peak/Box – Racek hut

Acclimatization ascent to Uchitel During the day we make ascent to one of the highest peak in the region. Standing on the summit in good weather day you will be able to see other mountains and Chu valley many kilometers away. Ascent to the peak goes along scree and rocky slopes and ridges, however don’t require special climbing skills and using ropes or other safety equipment. Night in the hut.
Altitudes during the day (above sea level): Ratcek mountain hut – 3350m, Box peak – 4300m, Uchitel peak – 4540m
Distances and travel time: to Uchitel Peak is 5-6 km, +1190m, 6-7h/or Box Peak 7-8 km, +950m, 6-7hours.

Day 3
Racek hut – Korona hut

This day we move to the higher mountain hut, which represent itself a small metal cabin, standing on the side moraine of Ak Sai glacier at the footstep of Korona Mountain. On the way we cross the glacier, where crampons and harnesses are necessary equipment. Night in the hut.
Altitudes during the day (above sea level): Ratcek mountain hut – 3350m, Korona hut – 3800m.
Distances and travel time: 7-8km, 3-4hours, +450m.

Day 4
Trek on the glacier

Day of rest and walks along the glacier. During the day we can follow to “Bear end” of the glacier and come closer to famous walls of Ak Sai glacier – Free Korea peak, Bailan Bashi peak, 5th-6th tower of Korona peak. Night in the hut.
Altitudes during the day (above sea level): Korona hut – 3800m
Distance and travel time: depends on what do we choose.

Day 5
Ascent to Korona peak

This peak is situated opposite to Uchitel Peak. The ascent allows you to see Ak Sai mountain chain from a different site. Also this peak is famous because of the great view to Korona peak (4860m) and Semenov Tienshansky peak (4895m) the highest peak in the region. There are two ways to reach the summit. First is the easiest one, which follows along scree slopes from the South-East side of the peak. And second from Teke Tor pass. This route would be interesting for those, who likes adventures and rock climbing. After ascent return to Ratcek hut.
Altitudes during the day (above sea level): Korona Peak 1st tower – 4810m, Ratcek mountain hut – 3350m.
Distance and travel time: 8km, 3-4 hours, +450m.

Day 6
Racek hut  - “Alplager” - Bishkek

Descend to the initial point of the trek.Taking a car and drive back to Bishkek.
Altitudes during the day (above sea level): Ratcek mountain hut – 3350m, “Alplager” – 2200m, Bishkek – 800m.
Distance and travel time: Racek – Alplaager 5-6km, 3-4h, Alplager – Bishkek 45km, 1-1,5h.

 

Necessary equipment:
Sunscreen (at least 20SPF);
Lip balm;
Sunglasses with UV protection;
Gloves;
At least 35 Liter backpack for climbing;
Sleeping bag; 
Sleeping mat;
Telescopic poles;
Head lamp & batteries;
Crampons;
Helmet;
Ice axe;
Harness;
Alpine tuber;
Rope;
4 carbines;
Self-clothes;
Climbing shoes;
Feather clothes.

If required, possible to rent alpine equipment.