Pobeda Peak (7439m)
The most often climbed route, coming from the Southwest involves many kilometers of a mixed and broken ridge which is all situated above 7000 meter. Advanced base camp is located at Zvjozdochka glacier at 4600 m. Then early in the morning we head for camp at 5300m on Dickiy pass. Camp 3 is at snow plateau at 5700 meters where we will either use snow caves or tents. Further camps are then established at 6400m and 6800m, the upper camp being just before the long traverse (about 6 km. at the altitude above 7000m.) to the summit ridge. A final snow cave is normally established at 7100m towards the other end of the long traverse. The summit day is relatively long.
Peak Pobeda overranges all the other peaks of the majestic Tien Shan range with more than 400 meters. Together with its broad a complex built it makes for one of the most awesome sights in the mountains. The peak was already scaled in the thirties of the last century by Soviet climbers. But it was not known until the spring of 1943 that they had actually scaled the highest peak of these Northern mountains. In 1943 the Soviet team again succeeded in reaching the summit and this time it's got its name under which it is still known: Peak Pobeda, meaning "victory peak". It is a highly dangerous, exhausting and technical mountain to climb. Sometimes it’s called “ the coldest mountain on earth". Actually it is one of the northest 7000+ peaks on the globe and most routes up it come from the West and Northwest. All these factors add an extra difficulty to climbing it. A frightening number of, mostly Russian, mountaineers lay down their lives on this ridge. This bad reputation made that not very many parties have visited the mountain during the last 10 year, and less experienced climbers stay away with it.
Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel
Day 2. Transfer Bishkek- Karkara (460 km), accommodation at the Camp
Day 3. Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).
Day 4. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 5. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 6. Climb to the camp N1. 4600m
Day 7. Climb to the camp N2. 5300m
Day 8. Climb to the camp N3. 5700m
Day 9. Climb to the camp N4 6400 m
Day 10. Descent to the camp N1.4600 m
Day 11. Descent to the base camp.
Day 12. Rest day.
Day 13. Climb to the camp N1.
Day 14. Climb to the camp N2.
Day 15. Climb to the camp N3.
Day 16. Climb to the camp N4.
Day 17. Climb to the camp N5. 6900 m
Day 18. Climb to the camp №6. 7100 m.
Day 19. Ascent of summit and descent to the camp N5
Day 20. Descent to the camp N3.
Day 21. Descent to the camp N1.
Day 22. Descent to the base camp.
Day 23. Additional day in case of bad weather
Day 24. Additional day in case of bad weather
Day 25. Helicopter flight to Karkara and transfer to Bishkek. Overnight in hotel.
Day 26. Free day in Bishkek. Overnight in hotel.
Day 27. Transfer to the airport. Departure
Please note that the above itinerary is intended to be a guideline only. Unforeseen problems with team fitness could occur and there is always the threat of bad weather to force last minute changes.