Kuilu range mountaineering

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Kuilu range mountaineering

Duration: 18 days, 17 nights
Season: July – August
Route: Bishkek – Karakol – Inylchek village/Kuilu valley – trekking to Kuilu range – Expedition – Karakol – Tamga – Bishkek 
Level of difficulty: program is suitable for advanced mountaineers and professionals  

Description:

This range is situated in Central Tien Shan region, to the South-East from Issyk Kul Lake. Climate here is typical to that region: dry and not much precipitation. The ridge stretches for 50km in North-East direction and for 30km in North-West direction. The highest point is Constitution peak (5281m). There are several more peaks exceeding 5000m and majority of peaks are from 4500m to 5000m. Vertical drops of routes reaches 1100m. Among numerous glacial valleys and hanging glaciers there are many steep rock faces and ice fall steps.

Access to the region is possible by two ways:

1) From Karakol town by car following next route Turgen Aksuu gorge – Chon Ashuu pass (3822m) – Sary Djaz valley – Inylchek village. Then further trekking along Terekty valley. Approach to possible BC area might take from 1 to 3 day (20-40km), depending desired mountaineering area.  In the low flow of Tyrekty river there are good approaches to highest summit of the area – Constitution(5281m) and nearest to it Mengu peak (5068m). Getting into the upper reaches of Tirekty river gives possibilities for ascents to South-West Face of Constitution peak, Parhomenko peak (5056m) and some other nameless peaks – 4825m, 5077m, 5088m, 5178m.

2) From Karakol town by car following next route Turgen Aksuu gorge – Chon Ashuu pass (3822m) – Kuilu valley – 15-20 km up along Kuilu river. Then further trekking along Kuilu valley. Approach to possible BC area might take from 1 to 3 day (25-40km), depending desired mountaineering area. In the upper reaches of the valley there are several glaciers coming out side valleys. Each glacier can be considered as potential mountaineering area

a) Kindyk glacier – peaks 4610, 4550

b) Oroi glacier – 4820, 4700, 4648, 4610

c) Bordu West and Bordu East glaciers – peaks 5020, 5041, 4920, 4745

d) Karator glacier – Obruchev peak (5203m, second highest in the area), Parhomenko peak (5068m), 5088, 

e) Ashuu Tor glacier - Obruchev peak (5203m, second highest in the area), 4880, 4855, 4732. 

Day 1
Airport – Bishkek - Karakol

Early morning meeting in airport “Manas” in Bishkek. Transfer to a hotel. Breakfast. Rest till 10-11a.m. Transfer to Karakol city.

Days 2-4
Transfer to Kuilu valley or Inylchek village. Approach to Base Camp (BC). Stay in tents.

Days 5-8
Acclimatization. 

Radial hiking trips or easy ascents. Research of the way to 5000 peak. Stay in tents. 

Days 9-10
Approach to Advanced Base Camp (ABC). 
Altitude of ABC is 4000-4500m. Stay in tents. 

Days 11-12
One-day ascent to 5000m peak. Return back to ABC. Additional day in case of bad weather or unsuccessful ascent attempt. 

Day 13
Return back to BC.

Days 14-15
Return to finish trekking point. Transfer to Karakol. Accommodation in a hotel/guesthouse.

Day 16 
Rest day on Issyk Kul lake (Tamga village). Accommodation in a guesthouse.

Day 17
Tamga - Bishkek

Transfer to Bishkek. Farewell dinner. Accommodation in a hotel. 

Day 18
Bishkek - Airport

Transfer to airport “Manas”. Departure.

 

Necessary equipment:
Sunscreen (at least 20SPF);
Lip balm;
Sunglasses with UV protection;
Gloves;
At least 35 Liter backpack for climbing;
Sleeping bag; 
Sleeping mat;
Telescopic poles;
Head lamp & batteries;
Crampons;
Helmet;
Ice axe;
Harness;
Alpine tuber;
Rope;
4 carbines;
Self-clothes;
Climbing shoes;
Feather clothes.

If required, possible to rent alpine equipment.

Health insuranse is needed as well.